A white salt plain hill is surrounded by the exquisite, green Lesvos countryside, engulfed by a beautiful display of flowers and plants.

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In search of the perfect stuffed zucchini flower

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It was June 2021. Tired from a stressful trip from George to Lesvos with Covid obstacles flung at us at every turn, we eventually walked down the magical winding path leading to our traditional stone farmhouse with more than a little trepidation. We had been away for 2 years and who knew what we would find? When we dashed for the airport to fly home in 2019 with the renovations kind of finished, we imagined we would be back in a few months to place the last few finishing touches before the holiday rental guests arrived. Of course the universe had other plans for us - and everyone else. The guests evaporated like smoke, we were all in Lockdown and our little house in Greece was a mere dream.

Now 2 years later, we rounded the last dappled shadow bend in the path, and there, beyond the old gnarled olive tree, stood Philoxenia Secret Escape - strong and steadfast. We needn't have worried. After all, the house has stood backed by stone terraces and gazing onto the citrus orchard for 146 years. Our lost two years was nothing.

But what delighted and surprised us before we even got to the front door, was the swathe of dark leafed, crawling, curling, verdant zucchini plants cascading down the bank onto the path to the patio. And on the path, a beaming man with wide open arms, welcoming us home in true Philoxenia style. This must be Sotiris who had been keeping an eye on the garden and house. We had only met him on WhatsApp, but here he was welcoming us like long lost friends. His excitement was tangible as he showed us the rest of the treasures he had planted for us - tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, aubergines, melons and squashes planted between roses, lemons and orange trees.

Zucchini's are plentiful in Lesvos and every Plomari taverna serves them in a multitude of ways – sliced thinly and fried in a delicate tempura batter; drizzled with olive oil and roasted in the oven; grilled with feta; the huge fleshy ones in a lemon/ egg sauce. We picked our zucchinis (with other veges) every day and made spicy soups, grated them into citrusy salads; baked, chargrilled and roasted them.

But the prize on a zucchini plant is not in fact the ripe veg, it's the crinkly bright yellow flower, picked when it's just blooming and then stuffed with herby feta or rice. We have been addicted to them for years and order them whenever we can.

Our friends Regina and Gerhard, who had been forced to cancel in 2020, booked for two weeks soon after we got there, and we moved out and set off to explore the island. It was optimum zucchini flower time, so we also went in search of the perfect stuffed flower.
Our first stop was lunch in the village. One of our favourite taverna's, but the batter was too thick. Disappointing! Maria was not on form…
But at dinner the next evening with our friends on the terrace at Amoudeli with its sensational sea views, the batter was thin and crispy and the warm herby feta oozed out in delicious dribbles. This was going to be difficult to beat.
We then stayed for a few days at nearby Agios Isidoros beach - our favourite beach in Lesvos. After a morning swimming and playing tavli (a kind of backgammon), we wandered along the beach and had lunch at Aphrodite taverna. The batter was light and fresh with a gently herby filling finished off with a dusting of grated Lesvos cheese. Delicious!
We explored mountain villages, lake-side, beach front and city tavernas. High up Agiasos village, where we escaped to get cool, we collapsed in a thirsty heap at our favourite To Stavrii taverna and ordered mezze of the day. But we were so entranced by the horses as part of the lunch time vibe, that we got distracted from the tasting. We'll be forced to go back to try again!
A few days later, in a secluded beach taverna near Molyvos that our friend Douw took us to, we tucked into a plate of steamed flowers stuffed with rice and smothered in a lemony sauce. Sensational!
But in the end, we both agreed that the best of all the delicious stuffed zucchini flowers was in the far, far north of the island where we stayed for a week. Golden Beach is a hidden gem. An old nunnery built right on the beach has been converted into a very simple but astonishingly beautiful hostel with the small nuns cells converted into rooms, breath-taking views, a quiet spiritually replenishing courtyard - and just behind, a peaceful taverna.
Watching the sun set over Turkey, we loved the feta stuffed flowers with an ultra light tempura batter. But our last night, was the pinnacle. Steamed flowers, stuffed with rice, the petals almost transparent with fine green and white striations. With no batter to mask the flavour, the delicate flavour of the flowers was sublime, the best of all. Or could it have been the amazing position that seduced us? Perhaps..
But we know that we will never get tired of stuffed zucchini flowers – or the exciting search to find them.
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