A white salt plain hill is surrounded by the exquisite, green Lesvos countryside, engulfed by a beautiful display of flowers and plants.

Blog


The Nightingale Sings

We have experienced many firsts during the last 12 years of exploring Greece – the wrath of Poseidon tossing our little boat on choppy `Aegean seas; Greek Easter festivities; eating at a taverna with the sea lapping a few centimeters away; experiencing the generosity and hospitality of Philoxenia (meaning friend / kindness to the stranger) and the massive first of renovating a near ruin on Lesvos island.

But one of the most delightful and unexpected firsts was hearing a nightingale sing a few days ago in our garden in Plomari. We had been enjoying a chilly but clear evening on the terrace looking out over our orange trees, so laden that the branches seem near breaking point. With the Sedountas river valley snaking up to mountains in the north, we were basking in the beauty of our little Secret Greek Escape, when the piercing melody made us sit up and gasp. It was enchanting and like nothing we have heard before – a momentous heralding of spring.  

Whilst sailing in Greece over the years we have often commented how limited the fauna and flora is. Not so in Lesvos. Spring is a delight and we have enjoyed hiking through the surrounding ancient olive groves scattered with wildflowers; over hills to traditional little village squares and along the lush river valley that forms our front boundary. The colours and clarity of light take our breath away. Yesterday we walked along a narrow path past a small church into the hills and discovered at least 4 orchids in flower. We've been told that there are more than 90 species of orchid on the island with a number of them found only here and nowhere else in the world. More firsts! We now walk with our eyes cast down, searching for these exquisite flowers. 

Probably one of the most enjoyable new things we have experienced is having our very own citrus orchard. There are still hundreds of oranges on the trees and we enjoy freshly squeezed juice and Henry's delicious bitter orange marmalade on the terrace overlooking the trees and valley every morning. 

Another first for us has been discovering wild asparagus picked during spring from the hills surrounding Plomari. We have a few growing in our garden, but we buy bunches from farmers in the square. There is an art to preparing and cooking them – fiddly and time consuming, but worth the effort. Made into an omelette with onions, feta and loads of olive oil (from Dina trees!) – something to look forward to next spring.

Spring is not only about the rebirth of nature. It's about two major celebrations - Easter and May day.

This was not our first but our third Greek Easter. The memorable first was spent in Chios with our friends Kiriaki and Dimitri. This year, our supremely kind and generous friends, Dina and Stratis, invited us to Sunday lunch with their huge extended family –5 daughters, numerous cousins, aunties, uncles,grannies and babies all squeezed around the long table in the garden. Not unlike "My big fat Greek wedding", this was a gargantuan feast with scrumptious roast lamb the delectable hero. Although the 3 layered home-made ice cream cake came a close second. Or maybe the dolmades……or lemon potatoes? All washed down with carafes of local wine. Yum…. 

The Easter celebrations don't begin with Sunday lunch – it's a weekend affair. On Saturday, Dina delivered her still warm sweet Easter bread and Georgia, her youngest daughter gave us traditional Easter eggs she had painted. These would be used at Sunday lunch in an egg smashing game – the victor the one whose egg stays intact. We have now observed twice the intense competition involved with family feuds threatening to erupt. Dinas 4th daughter, Stratoula, is convinced her grandfather uses a wooden egg!

Easter processions take place all over Greece in the evening of Easter Friday. There are three main orthodox churches in Plomari located roughly in three corners of the village. Each church prepares an 'Ark' that is decorated with flowers. Led by the priest, the Ark is carried by young men followed by children and the singing congregation. Processions of the three Arks arrive at the town square at the same time symbolizing the unity of the village. We found a spot at our favourite café where 3 roads converge and had a great view of the solemn processions coming together.

On Saturday night at midnight, the priests announce "Christas Anesti!" (Christ has risen) answered by the joyous cries of "Alithos Anesti" (Truly he has risen) and the air erupts with the explosion of fire crackers, some of which are dynamite! Greece is a noisy country but at Easter the Greeks outdo themselves! 

May takes its name from the Greek Goddess Maios, nurse and mother. The first of May celebrates the final victory of summer over winter.All over Greece, families make floral wreaths which are hung on their front doors to welcome the power of nature back into the home after winter. We didn't make a wreath but hung bountiful roses from our garden. On midsummers night, we will toss the dried flowers onto a bonfire and leap over the flames to ensure a year of good luck and happiness – for us, our friends, our family and our countries.

If you would like to experience our very special house and village, Philoxenia Secret Greek Escape is available to rent. Contact me to find out more.


Check out Instagram for more photos: Instagram @secretgreekescape

Most of the photos are ours but thanks to Alison Evans, Gemma Cronin and Eleanora Pouwels.

Fire and brimstone...followed by "The Rabbit Hop H...
In search of the perfect stuffed zucchini flower