We have visited Gialos, the harbour of Symi island, many times over the years and been seduced by this beautiful town with it's gorgeous pastel coloured neo-classical houses nestled in the natural amphitheater around the harbour and up the hillside. We have always been on the boat, which, in this small and busy harbour, can be a bit stressful, and so this year we decided to stay there en-route to Leros where the boat was kept during the winter. Our friend Alison joined us early on as she wanted to be on the boat from the beginning to help commission it. 

We scoured the internet and found a lovely traditional house that we hoped would be as beautiful in reality as it was on the net. We were not disappointed; not with the house, the view, or the delightful Maria, whose husband's great, great grandfather had built it for his daughter. From there we watched the goings on in the harbor from the luxury of our balcony that was not in danger of having its anchor picked up by badly skippered boats!

Rhodes and Symi architect who we had met a few years ago in Rhodes and ws, Anastasia Papaioannou, had offered to take us on a walking tour around the town and explore places we had not seen before. We jumped at the chance, and for the next two days were surprised and delighted to see Symi's other faces, mostly hidden from the view of visitors.

Anastasia passionately fights the case of heritage in a world dominated by bureaucracy, and all too often, stupidity. She at times railed against bizarre building decisions, insensitively renovated churches and awful colour choices and then praised perfectly proportioned and restored houses, romantic ruins with the patina of age in their layers upon layers of crumbling plaster, textured walls and shades of ochre, faded blue, soft umber and delicate cream.

We made our way through fascinating winding streets and narrow alleys, a new surprise around every corner.

Henry loved the mono-pitched rooves that contrasted with the elaborate neo-classical designs that they pre-dated but fitted in so harmoniously with. He had in fact taken a photo a few years ago of a renovated house with interlocking prismatic shapes that he thought was beautifully designed. During our walk, Anastasia pointed it out as one of her own houses, initially a stable and now a stylish holiday rental that fitted perfectly into its context!

She told us stories of times when Symi prospered through sponge diving when all the men went out for weeks at a time to dive for sponges, a treacherous occupation. With vivid emotion, she pointed out the area where the boats would come back, children shouting "they're here, they're here" as the entire town rushed down to meet them, praying that their sons, brothers and fathers had survived.

She showed us inside a sponge captain's mansion that she had restored, tall windows overlooking the harbor with wide floor boards and exquisitely painted ceilings. A wonderful 3D cube motif had been used on floor, ceilings and external cornices.

Her own house where she invited us to dinner, was an old shepherds hut which she renovated more than 20 years ago, and over the years she has bought more small buildings around it, adding on in a delightful organic way. In a saddle high up behind the harbor between two hills, this was an area where shepherds and other humble people lived, far away from the imposing harbor mansions and impressive Venetian double or triple story houses. People thought she was crazy buying and building here, but now those in the know are clamouring for her to fix up a house in this beautiful area with views down over the roof tops, across the shimmering Aegean and to the mountains of Turkey in the distance.

Anastasia, in true 'philoxenia" style, had given up two whole days for us and shared her love and knowledge of Symi – generosity of spirit unsurpassed!

Contact Maria or Anastasia to stay at their beautiful houses:
Asterope Traditional House - Maria: +30 697 6777594 http://www.asterope.gr
Anastasia: +30 694 858 9800, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. She can give you more details